FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions)
What is the recommended pouring temp for soap molds?
Pouring temperatures of any product should not exceed 140 degrees F. Pouring above these temperatures may warp or damage the mold and we will NOT replace molds.
Do you have wholesale pricing?
Yes, we offer wholesale pricing on our soap molds, soap paints, mitre boxes and straight soap cutters to legitimate retailers. A Certificate of Resale form and a current copy of a reseller's license/permit must be submitted with wholesale account inquiries. Additionally, all minimums must be fulfilled to receive wholesale pricing.
I don't feel comfortable ordering online.
What are my options?
Our company requires written documentation of an order. For this reason, we ask that you place your order online or use one of these additional order options:
- Fax a printout of your online shopping cart order to 1 (810) 750-0306.
- Email your order. Include shipping address, email address, phone number, and payment method. DO NOT INCLUDE credit card information in the email. We will phone you to obtain creditcard information.
- If you require assistance, please call our phone center at (810) 750-1406. Business hours are Monday-Thursday, 9 am -4 pm EST. Please leave a message and we'll get back to you as quickly as possible. Keep in mind, we are a manufacturing company and are not always in the office to take calls. Often, you will receive a quicker response by sending us an email.
I live locally, can I pick up my order?
No. We do not have a retail storefront and warehouse pick-ups are not available.
When can I expect my order?
Most orders ship within 24-48 hours. You will be notified by email when your order ships. Our UPS Time-In-Transit map shows the number of days it will take for your order to ship from our facility.
Mold size and pouring temperature of soap will determine set up time. It is imperative that you allow soap to cool completely before trying to remove from any mold. Depressions will occur in the top of mold if you try to release soap by force. Allow molded soaps to sit for at least 1 hour for best results. Gently pull the at the sides of the mold. This releases entrapped air between the mold and soap. Using firm, but gentle pressure, push on the top of mold until soap is released. If you are still having difficulty, place mold in the freezer for 10-15 minutes.
Mold Tips for CP (cold process) soapers:
- Do not use oil in the molds, it will make the CP stick more because the traced soap wants to grab onto the oils. When you get a new mold, wash it in warm soapy water, rinse and dry with a soft towel and buff it.
- Use borax in the water before you add the lye. Add 2 tsp of Borax for every 6 oz of water, stir till it's dissolved and then add your lye to it. What this will do is firm up the CP and make releasing it a breeze.
- If the top part of the CP is hard and the bottom is mushy, it might not have had a full trace.
- If using Palm Oil as part of your recipe, stir the oil before scooping it out on your scale. Most soap makers do not know that the Oleic Fatty Acid in the Palm Oil will sink to the bottom of the container as the oil solidifies and the other fatty acids will float to the top. If the Palm Oil is just scooped out from the top of the container, you get a soft soap but as you get to the bottom of the container, you'll find you get a harder bar of soap because the Oleic Fatty Acid has sunk down. when using a 5 gallon bucket of oil, dig a hole down into the Palm Oil and start scooping the oil out from the bottom to the top so you have a mix of complete oil.
- If the CP sticks in the mold... do not force it out but instead put the whole mold into the freezer for 30 minutes, take it out and let the plastic mold come to room temperature which is about 2 minutes. Put a towel on the counter and turn the mold over on the towel, now put your fingers under the mold and gently pull the sides of the mold to allow air in and then with your thumbs on top of the mold, press as your go around the mold. You should see the air releasing it from the mold.
PRINT MOLD TIPS
When opening a container of Palm Oil, you will want to use it from top to the bottom. This is because your Stearic fatty acid and Oleic fatty acid sink to the bottom of the container so you end up with softer soap if you use the top of the oil. You will get harder bars when you get to the bottom of your container. (Palm Oil is the only fat that I know of where that happens.)
*This information was shared by Irene Linauer (Mold Market's CP soaping guru).
In Irene's Basic Soap Making DVD she discusses a 5% lye discount. A number of customers have been confused about discounting the lye. Below is a direct response from Irene on how the lye discount works.
This is the recipe used on the DVD:
- 11 oz Olive Oil
- 9 oz Coconut Oil
- 5 oz Palm Oil
- 7 oz distilled water & 1 tsp borax
- 104 grams of lye
Here is Irene's comment about the discount factor:
The lye was discounted by 5% so you have 5% excess fat in the soap which doesn't get saponified. If I didn't discount the lye, my lye amount would be 109.43 grams which is 0% excess fat which means that 100% of the fat is saponified. Do you see the difference in the lye amount? If I were to discount the lye at a higher percentage, I'd have more excess fat in my soap but then the soap would not lather well and have a bigger chance of the fats going rancid within the soap. Sometimes I discount my lye by 3% to 4% if I'm using oils that have a shorter shelf life.
Then the question is - what happens with the excess fat in the soap?
It stays on your skin and leaves the skin feeling moisturized.
- Using too much water in a cold process soap recipe will cause the soap to be soft and take much longer to cure.
- Borax - is not a detergent, it is called "desert salt" and it will not only soften the water more but will also generate more lather in the soap.
- When you are making a large batch of CP, your lye and oils temperatures can be at 100 degrees since it does not cool down very fast. When making small batches like 2 to 3 pounds, it's better to mix your lye water and oils at 110 degrees. Mixing the lye water and oils together at too high a temperature can cause the soap to crack during the curing time.
- Whenever you add any oils to Melt and Pour, you will find that it will diminish the lather because the fat will not let the soap generate lather.
- During the summer months, you can mix your oils and lye water at 110 F degrees and pour it into the molds. Then, set it out on a concrete walkway or deck when the outside temps are 80 F degrees or higher. The soap gets processed much quicker and gets rock hard within 4 hours and is ready to use the next day.
- Cold process soaps made with milk usually stick and are better left within the mold longer then 24 hours because part of the soap will be left behind in the mold.Use a small amount of warm water and mix borax into it since milk won't dissolve in the borax. If you can't get soap out of the mold, freeze it from 30 minutes and up to an hour. Then, flip the mold onto a towel and put a "warm" towel on the mold to bring the plastic to room temperature. Once it's room temp, "gently" pull away the sides of the mold and watch to see if you get air pockets. Once you see air pockets, press on the mold with thumbs or the palm of the hand and watch the air pocket move in that area. The soap releases and comes out of the mold.
- Another option to getting soaps easily out of the mold is by using a small amount of Sodium Lactate in the cold process recipe because it will really harden the soap!
Using a dry brush, lightly dust the soap surface with cornstarch for better paint adhesion. Paint has a tendency to pull away from oily surfaces, such as soap. This is especially true of melt and pour soaps. CP (cold process) soaps tend to have more of a porous surface and paint adheres better.
We recommend using professional artist brushes in smooth, even strokes. Allow painted surface to dry for 15 minutes (we suggest overnight) before applying a second color layer. Do not wrap painted soaps for at least 24 hours to avoid paint pulling away from soap surface.
This has to with design issues that can get pretty complicated for the average person. In a nutshell, the rounded corners create a stronger mold that last longer as "webbing" issues do not occur with this corner design. Webbing issues have to do with the way the plastic extrudes and thinning of plastic can occur creating weak spots in the design. The depth and size of the mold are key factors. With smaller areas (such as mold #079) webbing issues and extrusion issues are not a problem.
If the corners were perfectly square on these large slab trays, the mold would be weakened due to webbing and the corners would readily crack when soap is released. We extend the corners to allow the soap maker to trim the corner into rectangular shaped bars that are the same size as the rest of the bars. Honestly, it's a pretty clever way to make sure there is no waste and the mold remains strong.
Where are Mold Market molds manufactured?
In the "good ole' USA". Mold Market is committed to providing jobs for American workers and to supporting domestic manufacturers and suppliers. Our molds are American made and we are proud of this fact.
Mold Market molds are produced in United State factories. Many mold companies in the industry have moved production overseas to take advantage of low labor costs and generally cheaper production costs. We are saddened to find that some companies are advertising "Made in the USA" when this is not true. Mold Market elects to provide jobs to the U.S. workforce despite the competition from lower cost imports.
We hope that you will support us in our effort to provide high quality designer molds for discriminating consumers desiring U.S products.
What is your return policy?
Due to health/safety issues and the nature of our products, we cannot accept returns or exchanges. Should we authorize a "special consideration" return, it will be in the form of an online store credit. There is a 15% restocking fee on returned product and the customer bears the cost of returning the items in saleable condition.
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